7 a.m., Nov. 2)
St-Martha's addition lives up to 'good food, served well'
By Fred Sherwin
St-Martha's Brasserie d'Orléans first opened its
doors in the fall of 2012, there were no other restaurants
like it in Orléans.
combination of rustic French cuisne and the cozy bistro
atmosphere caught on immediately and patrons had to make
reservations at least a week in advance.
restaurant's success combined with Executive Chef Ryan
Feltmate's boundless imagination and creativity, soon
had the group of co-owners considering a second location.
The result is St-Martha's Culinaire d'Orléans which
recently opened its doors at the corner of Tenth Line
Road and Brian Coburn Boulevard.
Culinaire d'Orléans Lead server Nick
Gravel, Executive Chef Ryan Feltmate and General
Manager Dan Maron take a break during the
retsuarant's soft opening. Fred Sherwin/Photo
Culinaire is a Montreal-style gastro-bistro that local
foodies and those who appreciate good food served well
-- which also happens to be St-Martha's motto and the
name of their website -- will eagerly patronize.
Feltmate's status among the city's best young culinary
minds has been cemented by the creative menu and garnishes
that almost steal the show on every dish at the Culinaire
if not for the quality of the main ingredients.
in point, Feltmate's salsa verde which comes with the
Smoked Porchetta appetizer, or his tomato lemon confit
which is served on top of the Salmon Tartar, both of which
I had the pleasure of sampling during a visit to the restaurant
last weekend. They are so good -- and I say this as someone
who would shell out good money for the pleasure -- that
they should be bottled and sold at the bar along with
Chef Feltmate's homemade mustards.
note: The only criticism I have is that the Salmon Tartar
could have been a touch colder, but that would be like
telling God that a gorgeous sunset isn't quiet red enough.
I later found out that the waitress had trouble finding
me which allowed the Tartar to warm slightly.)
apps on the Culinaire menu include thinly sliced House-cured
duck prosciutto with spiced poached pears, arugula and
shaved Parmesan cheese; and PEI mussels steamed in a rich,
spiced garlic and chili cream sauce with braised mushrooms.
that doesn't have you rushing to the phone to make a reservation,
a quick listing of some of their entrées will.
Like the pan-seared maple and sumac infused Atlantic salmon
served on a tomato and pickled beet salsa with goat cheese,
red kidney beans and a basil coulis; or the Quebec duck
breast, pan-seared and glazed with an orange marmalade
and port gastrique, served with a potato and apple galette
and seasonal vegetables. Both dishes are gluten free.
also make four different gastronomic pizzas in their state-of-the-art,
gas-fired pizza oven, a French onion soup that's to die
for, and several salads including Chef Feltmate's take
on the classic Caesar and the timeless Waldorf.
prices are all quite reasonable as well. The appetizers
are priced between $12 and $18, and the most expensive
entrée is the Saumon Grillé at $26. For
dessert you can try the chocolate fondue for two ($15)
or the Crème Brulée Bruyére ($8).
even a kids menu that includes Suprême des Frites,
the Culinarire take on the classic poutine with fries
topped with grilled chicken pieces, chicken demiglaze
and Provolone cheese, gratineed until golden brown; a
classic Marguerita pizza; and Linguine tossed in the house
tomato sauce garnished with freshly grated parmesan cheese
and fresh basil leaves.
for those people who enjoy a cocktail before during or
after dinner, the Culinaire has several original drinks
to choose from with local place names like the Navangroni,
the Avalon, and the Gentleman Culinaire.
learn more about St-Martha's Culinaire d'Orléans
you can visit their website at www.goodfoodservedwell.com.
Their hours are Monday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
and Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
story was made possible thanks to the generous support
of our local business partners.)